New reviews of Bordeaux’s famed dessert-style wines, including a potential classic from Yquem
While France’s premier wine region struggled to produce compelling wines in the tricky 2008 vintage, the region’s sweet wines from the appellations of Barsac and Sauternes performed admirably.
The growing season was marked by a spring frost and then wet and cool temperatures that led to increased mildew pressure during the first part of the growing season, followed by a warm stretch in July that led to copious canopy growth. August started cool, then heated back up, with the vintage rescued by perfect weather in September. Many properties spaced their various tries (passes through the vineyards) from late September to well into October.
The late-running vintage allowed for plenty of botrytis development, while the cooler growing year led to wines marked by fresher acidity. The result is a set of juicy, fresh-styled wines that show well-defined flavors and bright edges, as opposed to the more opulent flavors of a classic vintage such as 2001 or the slightly over-the-top marmalade edge of the 2003s.
“The quality is there, but not the quantity, due to the spring frost,” said Aline Baly of Château Coutet in Barsac. “It’s a fresh vintage that will probably progress a little faster than ’09.” (Read more about the wines of Barsac in my blog today recounting my recent visit to Coutet.)
While not as compelling as 2001 or 2003, the ’08s are delicious wines. And the style of the vintage plays into the hands of the general trend in Sauternes to produce wines in a fresher style.
“Its freshness is really wonderful, it is so lively and bright,” said Bérénice Lurton of Château Climens. “We were very glad to come back to this style of vintage, which is less impressive than ’05 and ’07, but fresher than ’06.”
“Sauternes should be fresh, long and pure, not just sugar and power that is impossible to digest,” said Pierre Lurton, director of the famed Château d’Yquem estate in Sauternes. “It’s the wine you should start the meal with, with foie gras of course, as opposed to ending the meal with.”
The 2008 d’Yquem is scheduled to be bottled in February 2011; I tasted it with Pierre Lurton and have included a non-blind tasting note of the wine here. All other wines listed here were tasted blind, including the barrel sample of the ’08 de Fargues, which is also noted with a score range instead of a finalized score.
In addition to the ’08s, I’ve also included some recently tasted Sauternes from other vintages, including the latest releases from Château Roûmieu-Lacoste and Château Gilette; the latter estate only produces one wine and only in vintages they consider the very best, holding them back for many years prior to release.
Note: Prices listed are for 750ml bottles unless otherwise indicated, although many dessert wines are available in half-bottle format as well.
CHÂTEAU D'YQUEM Sauternes 2008 Score: 94-97 | NA
This shows lush creamed peach, mango, green fig, ginger and clementine flavors, with a long, gorgeous, rounded finish. Not the power of a classic vintage, but none of 2008's angularity either, with beautiful precision and impressive range. Non-blind barrel tasting. —J.M.
CHÂTEAU GILETTE Sauternes Crème de Tête 1989 Score: 94 | $220
Quite ripe and showy, this is turning to the drier edge now as it matures, with date, green tea, green almond, dried blood orange and green plum notes laced with marzipan and mango puree. The long, exotic finish sails on, offering waves of dried tropical fruit and lightly roasted nut notes. Distinctive and thoroughly gorgeous. Drink now through 2020. 400 cases made. —J.M.
CHÂTEAU DE FARGUES Sauternes 2008 Score: 91-94 | NA
This shows impressive concentration, with candied kiwifruit, green plum and green tea notes offset by wonderfully pure Jonagold apple and clementine flavors. The long finish has some serious drive, exploding as it sits in the glass. —J.M.
CHÂTEAU GUIRAUD Sauternes 2008 Score: 92 | $50
A ripe, flashy style, with layers of creamed peach, Jonagold apple, candied citrus peel and dried apricot, all stitched with lovely acacia honey and floral notes. This has power and purity. Drink now through 2022. 3,500 cases made. —J.M.
CHÂTEAU RIEUSSEC Sauternes 2008 Score: 92 | $65
This cuts a broad swath, with dense fig, piecrust, green almond and golden raisin notes held together by ginger cream and tarte Tatin notes. The long, creamy finish lets a coconut milk hint check in. One for the cellar. Best from 2014 through 2025. —J.M.
CHÂTEAU SUDUIRAUT Sauternes 2008 Score: 92 | $65
This packs power and purity into an unctuous yet sleek frame, with mouthwatering acacia honey, creamed melon, honeysuckle, white peach and green almond notes that drive through the lengthy finish. A serious Sauternes. Drink now through 2024. —J.M.
CHÂTEAU CLIMENS Barsac 2008 Score: 91 | $107
Ripe and luxurious, with creamed ginger, almond and glazed pear notes laced with warm piecrust, apricot and clementine flavors. Long and authoritative on the finish, this is frankly sweet, but with the latent purity for balance. Drink now through 2022. 1,250 cases made. —J.M.
CHÂTEAU DOISY-DAËNE Barsac 2008 Score: 91 | NA
This has two sides for now-a rich apricot, melon and creamed apple side, along with a brisker clementine, green fig and kiwifruit side. Delivers power and snap, richness and vibrancy. When they come together, this should be a winner. Best from 2013 through 2023. —J.M.
CHÂTEAU DOISY-VÉDRINES Barsac 2008 Score: 91 | $37
A fresh, pure, driven style, with gorgeous honeysuckle and acacia notes leading the way for Cavaillon melon, Jonagold apple and glazed pear notes. The long finish really sings. Very pretty. Drink now through 2022. 2,000 cases made. —J.M.
CHÂTEAU ROÛMIEU-LACOSTE Barsac Cuvée Léon 2006 Score: 91 | $24/375ml
Ripe and pure, with lovely creamed yellow apple, glazed apricot and peach notes and a long, fresh finish of almond butter that sails on nicely. There's lovely mouthfeel from start to finish. Drink now through 2013. —J.M.
CHÂTEAU SIGALAS RABAUD Sauternes 2008 Score: 91 | NA
This is lush, with mango, papaya, green fig and glazed pear aromas and flavors that glide over a creamy frame. The long finish sports more power than finesse, but that's all right when you've got this much range. Drink now through 2021. —J.M.
CHÂTEAU LA TOUR BLANCHE Sauternes 2008 Score: 91 | NA
Very bright aromas of freshly cut yellow apple and honeysuckle give way to richer Cavaillon melon, lemon curd and creamed white peach. The rounded, lush finish is very enticing. This really takes off in the glass. Drink now through 2021. 450 cases made. —J.M.
CLOS HAUT-PEYRAGUEY Sauternes 2008 Score: 90 | NA
This is racy, with a mouthwatering note to the Jonagold apple, acacia, honeysuckle and green fig notes, all backed by a pure lemon curd and sweetened butter finish. Delicious. Drink now through 2020. 666 cases made. —J.M.
CHÂTEAU COUTET Barsac 2008 Score: 90 | $68
A bright, high-toned style, with glazed pear and peach fruit aromas and flavors backed by flashes of candied green plum and heather honey. Quite sweet on the finish, but long and pure. Drink now through 2021. 2,915 cases made. —J.M.
CHÂTEAU D'ARCHE Sauternes 2008 Score: 89 | NA
This shows a whiff of chartreuse, followed by juicy yellow apple and glazed peach and pear notes, followed by an acacia honey-filled finish. Medium-sweet and tasty. Drink now through 2017. 2,000 cases made. —J.M.
CHÂTEAU LAFAURIE-PEYRAGUEY Sauternes 2008 Score: 89 | NA
Super ripe, with a lacing of coconut milk weaving in and out of the green tea, roasted almond, creamed melon and dried apricot notes. Unctuous finish shows a slight twinge of heat. For fans of the powerful style. Drink now through 2017. 2,416 cases made. —J.M.
CHÂTEAU DE MALLE Sauternes 2008 Score: 89 | NA
Lovely creamy mouthfeel, with acacia honey, chamomile, candied lemon peel and green fig notes which hang on nicely through the enticing finish. Drink now through 2020. 3,330 cases made. —J.M.
CHÂTEAU DE MYRAT Barsac 2008 Score: 89 | NA
This is in the old school, powerful style, with lots of apricot, roasted almond, orange peel and clove hints that all rumble through the broad, unctuous finish. Fig and green tea add length on the finish, where there is a blip of heat. Drink now through 2017. —J.M.
CHÂTEAU NAIRAC Barsac 2008 Score: 89 | NA
Ripe and showy, with lots of honeyed apricot, graham and ginger cream notes spiked with a streak of candied orange peel. Bold, spicy finish. Drink now through 2017. 450 cases made. —J.M.
CHÂTEAU ROÛMIEU-LACOSTE Barsac 2006 Score: 89 | $20/375ml
A bright, fresh style, with nectarine, peach and dried apricot notes enlivened by a nice floral streak. This medium-sweet wine shows good zip on the finish. Drink now through 2012. —J.M.
CHÂTEAU ROÛMIEU-LACOSTE Barsac Cuvée André 2007 Score: 89 | $58
This is frankly sweet, unctuous and very friendly, with a core of glazed apricot, orange and peach flavors that glide through the plump, rounded finish. Very tasty. Drink now. —J.M.
CHÂTEAU BASTOR-LAMONTAGNE Sauternes 2008 Score: 88 | $18
This has a candied grapefruit edge, along with yellow apple, kiwi and acacia notes that linger on the open-knit, frankly sweet finish. Drink now through 2016. 541 cases made. —J.M.
CARMES DE RIEUSSEC Sauternes 2008 Score: 88 | $30
Ripe, flattering style, with lots of upfront apricot, hazelnut and candied orange peel notes backed by a broad, honeyed finish. Drink now through 2016. 5,350 cases made. —J.M.
CHÂTEAU LAMOTHE GUIGNARD Sauternes 2008 Score: 88 | NA
Ripe, muscular style, with lots of apricot, pear and fig notes pushed by warm pie crust and roasted hazelnut. Broad, tobacco-tinged finish is a touch blowsy. Drink now through 2018. —J.M.
CHÂTEAU DE RAYNE-VIGNEAU Sauternes 2008 Score: 88 | NA
This is pure and open-knit, with lighter-styled, fresh cut tangerine, clementine and lemon pound cake notes. Flattering finish. Drink now through 2019. —J.M.
CHÂTEAU ROMER DU HAYOT Sauternes 2008 Score: 88 | NA
This is a fat, open style, with tasty apricot, creamed peach and candied melon notes backed by a broad, honey-tinged finish. Drink now through 2017. —J.M.
CHÂTEAU FILHOT Sauternes 2008 Score: 87 | NA
Quite forward, with candied pear, green fig and honeyed notes and a slightly blowsy edge on the apple-filled finish. Drink now through 2015. 3,165 cases made. —J.M.
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